Catching up: Fisi Camp

I have to start off by sharing that for the longest time, I thought "Fisi" was spelled "Feces" and couldn't understand why the MSU Hyena research camp was named after poop. But "Fisi" means hyena in kiswahili. I got it now. 

Fisi Camp is my favorite place in Kenya. I think. We have visited a lot of gorgeous places but I have enjoyed my times at Fisi Camp more than any other trip that we've taken.

Nathan met the ladies (Steph and Tracy) of Fisi Camp on his first trip to Kenya and knew I'd love to visit there- at this point, I think we have visited 5 or 6 times? (I can't remember.) Fisi Camp consists of a tiny smattering (three, at this point) of American researchers and some awesome local Masai staff who cook and help out with the multitude of camp chores. Tracy, Meg and Brian, the current researchers, spend their days immersed in hyena-world. Their job is kind of awesome.

When we go to visit, we get to tag along with their various research adventures- starting with morning "obs" (observations) at about 5:30 am, when we pile in the Land Cruiser and bump our way out to the territory of one of three hyena clans. They track hyenas using radio collars, and usually look for them at known den sites or other popular hangouts. Once hyenas are found, they have to rush to identify each individual by their spots. Have you looked at a hyena lately?

They are fuzzy, often mud/blood/poo covered and, to me, they look pretty darn similar. Tracy can look at them and identify them within a few seconds. (Sometimes they have to consult their hyena photo album, but still--it's impressive.) Once ID'd, they note the hyena's behaviors in relation to each other (Murphy approaches Penne and sniffs, Penne tail bristles, Murphy sacks out by the den 10 yards from Penne, Penne eats a scrap and then pastes.) It's fascinating. The research on these particular hyenas (I can't remember how many, I'd guess over 150?) has been going on for over 20 years, so several of the older hyena ladies have been watched by researchers at least that long.

Along the way to/from hyena observations, we usually drive by huge herds of zebra, dozens of giraffes, elephants, lions (part of the job is stopping to watch and count the lions!), varied gazelles and antelopes, Masai cattle grazing inside the Mara, ostrich, secretary birds, vultures, cheetahs, and more.

After morning obs, the researchers return to camp to do paperwork, transcribe their observations, fix the car/solar batteries/tents/etc and other fun duties, like process samples of poop that they've collected from hyenas. Sometimes (rarely) a hyena is found dead, and they have to do a post-mortem necropsy on him/her. Then in the evening, starting around 5pm, is another sunset observation session- same as the morning.

Nathan helping to process poop samples. 

Every time we visit we learn more random factoids about hyenas (they are a matriarchal species- so the female hyenas are dominant, their closest mammal relative is mongeese, males and females have similar looking genitalia: the females have gigantic psuedo-penises) as well as see rare African wildlife- genets, bushbabies, white-tailed mongeese, and more. The researchers are very adamant that hyenas have been portrayed unfairly in Disney movies, and are actually better hunters than lions. They're all pretty protective of the hyenas reputations.

The food out there (yes, I have to mention the food) is really good too. Somehow, their Masai cooks can make eggplant parmesan, stuffed mushrooms, pizza, cinnamon rolls, and french toast out of a small kitchen safari tent.

Visiting Fisi Camp has been a huge stress-reliever for Nathan and I- getting out into the gorgeous Mara, hanging out with some super-passionate and dedicated researchers, watching hyenas do their hyena thing, spotting new wildlife, taking a (much-needed) break from Narok, and falling asleep to the sound of (really loud) fruit bats, hyena whoops, lion roars and wildebeest grunts. It's on the top of my list of things that I'll miss when we return to the states.